No water in the house? What to check, in order

Key takeaways

• First, find out how wide the problem is: one faucet, one bathroom, or the whole house.
• Ask the neighbors. If they have no water either, the cause is probably the utility, not your plumbing.
• Check your main shutoff valve. It may have been closed by accident, or after repair work.
• On a freezing day, a frozen supply line is a likely cause.
• On a well, check the breaker, the pressure switch, the pressure tank and the pump. See well pump repair.
• Water pooling anywhere? Shut off the main and call a plumber.

Step 1: Is it one faucet or the whole house?

Go to a few taps: a kitchen sink, a bathroom sink, a tub, an outdoor spigot. Check hot and cold.

• Only one faucet is dry or weak. The problem is probably at that fixture: a clogged aerator, a closed stop valve under the sink, or a failed cartridge. Unscrew the tip of the faucet (the aerator) and look for grit. Check that the small valve under the sink is fully open.
• Only hot water is missing. That is a water heater problem. See water heater repair.
• A whole bathroom or one side of the house is dry. A closed valve or a frozen section of line feeding that area is likely.
• Every tap in the house is dry or barely trickling. Go to step 2.

If water comes out but weakly, that is a different problem. See low water pressure.

Step 2: Ask the neighbors

Call a neighbor or check a neighborhood group. Look outside for crews, barricades or wet pavement.

• Neighbors have no water either. Suspect a main break, planned work or an outage on the utility's side. Call your water utility. In Johnson City, that is Johnson City Water & Sewer Services, whose customer service hours are Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Ask whether there is an outage or a boil water notice in your area. Check the city's website and the utility's notices before you call.
• Neighbors have water. The problem is on your property. Continue.

If the utility says your water is back on but you still have none, or an outage has just ended, run a cold tap for a few minutes. Air in the lines can sputter and clear.

Step 3: Check the main shutoff and the meter

1. Find your main shutoff valve. It is where the water line enters the house: a basement or crawlspace wall, a utility closet, a garage, or near the water heater.
2. Make sure it is fully open. A lever handle should line up with the pipe when open. A round wheel handle turns counterclockwise to open. Valves are sometimes bumped or closed during repairs.
3. Look at the water meter near the street, if you can safely reach it. Is the meter lid wet, or is there water pooling around it? A meter box full of water can mean a leak on the utility side or a leak on your side.
4. Check the curb stop. This second valve at the meter is usually the utility's, and may need a special key. Don't force it. If it looks closed or damaged, tell the utility.

If your main was closed and you open it, do it slowly. Let the pipes refill while you listen for hissing or running water that sounds wrong. Then check under sinks and around the water heater for leaks.

Step 4: Is a supply line frozen?

If it is below freezing, or was overnight, a frozen line is likely. Signs:

• Several taps are dry, or the problem started after a cold night.
• You see frost on a pipe in the crawlspace, garage or basement, or on a pipe along an exterior wall.
• The meter shows no movement when you open a tap.

The usual steps are in how to thaw frozen pipes: open the faucet, warm the pipe slowly and check for leaks. Never use an open flame. If you cannot find the frozen section, or it might be underground between the meter and the house, call a plumber. The frozen pipes page explains what they look at first. The prevention guide helps you stop it from happening again.

Step 5: On a well? Check the system

Many homes outside the city water service area are on a private well. If you're on a well, "no water" usually means the system lost pressure or power. Work through these in order:

1. Power. Check the breaker for the well pump at your electrical panel. A tripped breaker may flip back on, but if it trips again, stop. Don't keep resetting it.
2. Pressure switch. It's a small gray box on the pipe near the pressure tank. If the contacts look burned, or the switch is clicking without the pump starting, call a plumber or well professional.
3. Pressure tank. Look at the gauge. If it reads zero or very low, the pump may not be running, or the tank may have failed. A tank that cycles on and off rapidly is a warning sign.
4. Pump. If the power is on and the switch is good but nothing happens, the pump may have failed, or the well may have gone dry.

Don't open wiring or switches if you are not trained. Water and electricity are dangerous together. The well pump repair page covers what a plumber checks and what the common failures are.

Step 6: Look for a hidden leak or a break

If you've found a closed valve, a frozen line or a well problem, you've probably found the cause. If none of that applies, look for a leak:

• Wet spots on walls, ceilings or floors.
• Running-water sounds with all fixtures off.
• A meter that moves when every tap is closed.
• A drop in water at a pressure tank with the pump off.

A break in the line between the meter and the house, or in a pipe inside a wall, needs a plumber. Shut off the main if water is escaping. See burst pipe repair.

Is it safe to drink?

When water comes back after an outage or a break, it may be cloudy, rusty or full of air. Run the cold taps until it clears. If the utility issued a boil water notice, follow it until the utility lifts it. Check the city's notices for your area. If the water stays discolored for a long time, or smells of sewage or chemicals, don't drink it. Call the utility.

When to stop and call

Call a licensed plumber when:

• The cause isn't a closed valve, a utility outage or a clogged aerator.
• Water is leaking anywhere in the house or yard.
• The line may be frozen but you can't find the freeze.
• A well pump, pressure switch or tank looks faulty.
• You hear water running with every fixture off.
• Your meter is moving with all taps closed.

Tell the plumber what you checked, which fixtures are dry, whether the neighbors have water, and whether it is freezing. That saves time. For after-hours problems, see emergency plumber.

What to tell the plumber or the utility

A short, specific description gets you help faster. Say which taps are dry, whether hot or cold or both, whether the neighbors have water, when it stopped, whether it was freezing, and what you have already checked. If you are on a well, add what the pressure tank gauge reads and whether the pump breaker has tripped. Write it down before you call, and keep your phone handy for photos of the meter, the valve and the gauge.

If the water comes back dirty

After an outage, the first water out of the tap can be cloudy or brown. Run the cold tap farthest from the main until it clears, then do the same for the hot side. Clean the aerators on your faucets, because grit collects there. If your water heater was off, let the tank refill completely before you turn it back on. Sediment that came through the line can also clog a washing machine inlet screen, so check it if the washer fills slowly afterward.

Safety

• Electricity. Never touch the panel, a well switch or wiring while standing in water.
• Gas. If you smell gas near the water heater, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside.
• Water heater. If the water supply is cut off, turn off the heater until water returns. A tank can be damaged if it heats while empty. Electric heaters especially should stay off.
• Drinking water. Don't drink discolored water, or water under a boil notice.