Signs your sump pump needs attention
- It runs constantly, or it cycles on and off every few seconds
- It does not turn on when the pit fills
- It makes grinding, rattling or humming sounds
- Water stands in the pit and does not drop
- The pump is old and has never been tested
- Water shows up in the basement or crawlspace after heavy rain
If water is already on the floor, read about water damage restoration too.
Why pumps fail
- A stuck float. The float switch jams against the pit wall or debris, so it never starts or never stops.
- A failed switch or motor. Switches wear out with use.
- A clogged intake. Silt or gravel blocks the water from reaching the impeller.
- A stuck check valve. It fails to hold water in the discharge pipe, so the pump cycles again.
- A frozen or blocked discharge line. Water has no way out.
- Power loss. A tripped breaker, an unplugged cord or a storm outage stops the pump when you need it most.
- An undersized pump. It runs hard but cannot keep up in heavy rain.
What the job involves
- Check the power. Breaker, GFCI outlet and cord, with the unit unplugged before you touch the pit.
- Test the float. Fill the pit with water from a bucket. Does the pump start and stop?
- Inspect the pit and discharge. The plumber looks for debris, a stuck check valve or a blocked line.
- Repair or replace. A float, switch or check valve can often be replaced. An old or failing motor usually means a new pump.
- Install new, if needed. A new pit, pump, check valve and discharge line are set and tested.
- Add a backup. A battery backup or water-powered backup keeps water out when the power fails.
Do you need a battery backup?
Storms that fill a sump pit are the same storms that knock out power. A pump on house power stops with the grid. A battery backup runs the pump for a limited time on its own battery. Ask what runtime to expect and how often the battery needs replacing.
What affects the price
No number here is a quote. The price depends on whether the pump can be repaired or needs replacing, pump size and type, whether a pit must be dug or reused, the discharge route, a battery backup, electrical work such as a GFCI outlet, and whether it is an emergency call.
Keep the pump ready
Test it before the rainy season and again after any long dry spell. Pour a bucket of water into the pit and watch the float lift, the pump start and the water drop. Lift out leaves and silt, make sure the discharge pipe outlet is open, and check that the cord is plugged into a working GFCI outlet. A pump that sat unused for months is the one most likely to stick.
Where should the discharge go?
Out and away from the house, onto ground that slopes away, or to a drainage route. Not onto a septic drain field, and not into the sanitary sewer. Johnson City's code prohibits storm water, ground water, roof runoff and subsurface drainage in the sewer unless specifically authorized. Ask the plumber where your pump should discharge and whether anything needs approval.
Johnson City and East Tennessee specifics
- Rainfall. The Tri-Cities airport station has a normal annual precipitation of 43.97 inches (1991-2020 normals, National Weather Service Morristown). A pump that only works in a drizzle is not enough for a long rain.
- Sewer rule. The sewer use ordinance bars sump and roof drainage from the sanitary sewer.
- Mold. EPA says wet materials should be dried within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth, so a failed pump needs attention at once.
Safety before you call
- Electricity and water do not mix. Do not touch a pump, cord or outlet while standing in water. Turn off the circuit at the panel first, and only if you can reach it dry.
- Sewage is different. If a sewer backup, not groundwater, is the source, see the emergency plumber page.
- Water from a pipe is a different problem. For a pipe break, see burst pipe repair.